This refers to the angle of the gun's barrel or slide while it is seated in the holster. Determining the best angle of draw for your holster will depend on many things: Your physical build, the kind of gun you carry, the specific job you want the holster to perform, where the holster is located on your belt and even the type of training you have received in the past will all affect your decision about which angle to carry your firearm in.  If you are going to carry concealed via a belt holster, you need to realize that the closer to zero degrees you draw your gun, the longer your holster will be. This limits the cover garments you can use to those which are long enough to always conceal your holster/pistol combination. If you have a shorter torso and long arms, you may find it easier to draw your firearm when the holster is farther back on your hip with a fairly advanced draw angle. This setup will allow you to clear the muzzle without having to raise your elbow quite so high.

     The most commonly requested angles are approximately zero, ten and fifteen degrees forward from vertical. Typically, many shooters who carry at the 3 o'clock position prefer a neutral cant, or "straight draw" (zero degrees). Those who utilize the 4 and 5 o'clock positions often require a more advanced cant, with the angle of draw increasing more as the gun is positioned closer to the small of the back. These aren't steadfast rules, by the way, and I'm not telling you how to carry your pistol. I'm just trying to help anyone who isn't sure what angle of draw they might need. There are quite a few folks who like a very advanced angle of draw at the 3 o'clock, and there are those who prefer holster with a straight draw placed behind the hip. If you even want a more advanced angle of draw than those listed I can do that. Just keep in mind how that may affect the draw and ride height of your firearm. If you have any questions about what draw angle you need, just send me an e-mail. I am definitely not a "gun guru", but I will do my best to help you determine what options will suit your needs.

     You may choose the number of stitching rows in the holster body itself and in the throat reinforcement separately if that option applies. It's all up to you, so have fun with it. Please realize that a steel reinforced throat band requires a single stitch row, and if the holster has an exotic skin on the throat band, most people prefer to have a single stitch row to show off more of the exotic leather.

     This is the piece of leather above the holster's mouth that sticks up between the pistol and the person using it. It serves three basic functions. First, it helps prevent the wearers shirt from getting pinched into the holster while re-holstering. Next, it protects the pistol from direct contact with sweaty clothes. Finally, it keeps the uncomfortable, and sometimes sharp edges of the pistol's controls from biting directly into the wearer. It's worth noting that most ot my holsters are built standard without guards unless otherwise specified, but it is available as an option on almost anything I build, from magazine and light holders to the "Minimal Belt Slide" holster.

     The standard available colors at this time are Black, Moccasin Brown, and Saddle Tan. Other colors and finishes may be available on special request. If you want the throat band a different color than the main body, that's no problem. Just let me know when you order and that's the way I'll build it.

     The color of thread used when building the holster can drastically alter the way it looks. I give you the option of choosing what combination you want. The standard stitching colors available are Black, Brown, and White.

     The look of a belt or holster can also be dramatically affected by the color of the leather's edges. I trim, dye, burnish, and wax the edges of my holsters for an attractive and durable finish.  The standard edging colors are Black and Dark Brown. The edges on Saddle Tan orders can be "Dyed to Match" the main finish. In this case, the edges are slicked with Gum Tragacanth, dyed to match, and then burnished with pure natural bee's wax.